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Pipe Boot Replacement in West Michigan

A handyman charged $500 to caulk this pipe boot. It leaked worse. We charged $500 to replace it. Ten-year warranty.

Pipe Boot Replacement in West Michigan
Roof Repairs6 photos from this job
Project Details

What the Job Involved

Problem:
Cracked, UV-degraded pipe boot leaking at a plumbing vent; a prior sealant "repair" made it worse
Work performed:
Shingles removed around the vent, old boot removed, new pipe boot installed and sealed to manufacturer specifications, new shingles
Cost:
Around $500
Warranty:
10 years
Result:
Leak permanently resolved
About This Project

How It Went

Quick vocabulary, since you'll see this on your own roof. The white pipe is a drain-waste-vent pipe, usually just called a plumbing vent. The black rubber collar where it meets the shingles is a pipe boot, or vent pipe flashing. We call them pipe boots.

Here's the thing nobody tells you when you buy a 30, 40, or 50-year shingle: the shingle isn't the only thing on your roof. Rubber pipe boots take a beating from UV and weather, and after 10 to 15 years they dry out and crack, no matter what shingle is around them. Every roof needs a little maintenance at that mark. This is what it looks like when it doesn't get it.

The homeowner had already brought in a handyman to "repair the leak." He smeared brown sealant around the base of the boot and left. It didn't work. Sealant over a cracked boot doesn't fix the boot, it just traps water and hides the problem until it comes back.

We removed the shingles around the vent, pulled the old boot, installed a new one, and laid in new shingles, sealed and fastened to the manufacturer's specifications. Leak gone, permanently. Ten-year warranty.

Cost was about $500. The part worth remembering: the handyman charged the exact same $500. For a tube of caulk that made it worse.

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Project Photos

How This Pipe Boot Replacement Job Was Done

  1. 1The failed boot. The base has rusted through and the staining around it shows where water has been running.
  2. 2Shingles come up around the penetration so the old boot can come out whole.
  3. 3The new boot is set with its flange flat on the deck, ready to be lapped by the courses above.
  4. 4Shingles go back over the flange so water is shed onto them, never against the pipe.
  5. 5Finished. Re-laid rather than caulked — sealant over a bad boot buys a season at best.
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